Car Lifts 101

Everything You Need to Know

Before You Buy.

Expert guidance to help you choose the perfect car lift for your garage or shop.

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2 Post Lift 4 Post Lift Scissor Lift Symmetric vs Asymmetric Space & Installation Requirements What Size Lift Do You Actually Need? Delivery Can You Install It Yourself? Common Mistakes Maintenance
TYPES OF CAR LIFTS

Not All Lifts Are Built the Same

Each type serves a different purpose. Here's what they do and who they're for.

2-Post Lift

Most Popular

This is what you see in just about every professional shop for a reason. Two posts go up, arms swing under the vehicle's frame, and you get wide-open access underneath — nothing in your way. Whether you're swapping brake pads, replacing a strut, or chasing down an exhaust leak, a 2-post gives you the room to actually work. They come in overhead and baseplate setups depending on your ceiling situation.

Best for: Brakes, suspension, exhaust, general service
9,000-15,000 lbs 11-12ft ceiling 220V

4-Post Lift

The easiest lift to use, period. You drive on, park it, and hit the button. No messing with arm positioning, no guessing where the lift points are. If you want to stack two cars in a single bay, keep a project car off the ground, or just have a clean setup for oil changes and detailing — this is the one. Add a set of rolling jacks and you can do wheel-off work too.

Best for: Storage, oil changes, detailing
7,000-14,000 lbs 9-10ft ceiling 220V

Scissor Lift

Low Ceiling OK

Got an 8-foot ceiling? No problem. Scissor lifts sit flat on the floor and rise straight up, so you don't need a tall garage to make them work. They're portable, they don't need to be bolted down, and they plug right into a regular household outlet. Great if you want to do your own tire rotations, brake jobs, or detail work without crawling around on the floor.

Best for: Tire changes, brakes, detailing
6,000-8,000 lbs Any ceiling 110V
2-POST DEEP DIVE

Symmetric vs Asymmetric

The most common question when buying a 2-post lift.

Symmetric

Arms equal length. Car sits centered.
When to choose:
Trucks, vans, SUVs, commercial vehicles. More stable for large, heavy rigs.
Better for heavy vehicles
Equal weight distribution
Harder to open car doors (the vehicle sits right between the posts)
Recommended

Asymmetric

Arms offset. Car shifted back.
When to choose:
Sedans, coupes, light trucks, daily drivers. Easier door access so you're not squeezing past a post every time.
Easy door access
Best for most cars
Most versatile option
WILL IT FIT?

Space & Installation Requirements

Check these four things before buying.

Ceiling Height

Your ceiling determines which lifts work.

2-Post
11-12 ft min
4-Post
9-10 ft min
Scissor
Any height

Concrete Depth

Your slab needs to anchor safely.

2-Post
4-6 inches reinforced
4-Post
4 inches minimum
Scissor
Any flat surface

Power Supply

Check your electrical panel.

2-Post
220V / 30A
4-Post
220V / 30A
Scissor
110V standard outlet

Floor Space

Room plus working space around it.

2-Post
12 × 12 ft
4-Post
9 × 18 ft
Scissor
6 × 4 ft
CAPACITY GUIDE

What Size Lift Do You Actually Need?

Always go 25% above your heaviest vehicle curb weight.

Vehicle
Curb Weight
Min. Lift
Sedan (Civic, Camry)
3,000-3,500 lbs
7,000 lbs
SUV (RAV4, Explorer)
4,000-5,000 lbs
9,000 lbs
Full-size truck (F-150)
5,000-6,500 lbs
10,000 lbs
HD truck (F-250, 2500)
7,000-8,500 lbs
12,000 lbs
Commercial van (Sprinter)
6,500-9,000 lbs
14,000 lbs
Pro tip

Don't size for what you have — size for the biggest vehicle you might work on. A 10,000 lb lift handles 95% of consumer vehicles.

DELIVERY

How Car Lifts Get Delivered

Lifts ship freight — not UPS. Here's what to expect.

Residential + Liftgate

Delivered to your driveway. Liftgate lowers the crate to the ground. You move it into the garage.

Forklift Required

Too heavy for liftgate. Need a forklift or loading dock at delivery address.

Terminal Pickup

Pick up from the freight terminal yourself. Save on delivery fees.
INSTALLATION

Can You Install It Yourself?

Depends on the lift type. Here's what to expect.

2-Post

Moderate

You're drilling anchor bolts into concrete and standing up some heavy columns. Totally doable yourself, but grab a friend — this is not a solo job. Basic hand tools and a hammer drill will get it done.

Time 6-10 hrs
People 2 minimum
Electrician? Recommended

4-Post

Easiest

Bolt the frame together on a level surface. No drilling into the floor. Think of it like assembling heavy-duty furniture — just a lot bigger.

Time 4-8 hrs
People 2 minimum
Electrician? Maybe not

Scissor

Plug & Play

Unbox it, roll it where you want it, plug it in. That's it.

Time 30 min
People 1 person
Electrician? No

Need help with installation?

We can connect you with local installers. Call us at (888) 885-7067.
SAFETY

What Actually Keeps You Safe

A car lift holds thousands of pounds above your head. Here's what to look for.

Mechanical Locks

These engage automatically as the lift goes up. If the hydraulics ever fail — and that's a big if — the locks are what's actually holding the car. Bottom line: never work under a lift without the locks engaged.

ALI Certification

This means the lift has been independently tested to ANSI/ALI safety standards. It's the gold standard in the industry, though it's not strictly required for home use.

Power Outage?

Car stays right where it is. The mechanical locks carry the weight, not the hydraulics. Most lifts also have a manual lowering valve you can turn by hand to bring it back down.

Regular Inspections

Check cables, chains, and fluid yearly. Look for fraying, leaks, or anything that sounds off. Catching small stuff early keeps big problems from ever happening.
MAINTENANCE

Keeping Your Lift in Shape

Low-maintenance but not zero-maintenance.

1×
MONTH

Visual inspection

Check cables, leaks, unusual sounds.

3×
MONTH

Lubricate parts

Grease locks, pulleys, sliding parts.

1×
YEAR

Hydraulic fluid

Check level, replace if dirty.

2×
YEAR

Cable inspection

Check for wear, fraying. Replace if damaged.
AVOID THESE

5 Mistakes People Make

We see these all the time. Don't be that guy.
1
Buying too small
You grab a 7,000 lb lift for your Camry and then six months later you're looking at trucks. Always size for the biggest vehicle you'll ever work on — not just the one in your driveway today.
2
Not measuring the ceiling
Overhead 2-post lifts need 11–12 ft of clearance. Most residential garages sit around 8–9 ft. Measure before you order — not after the crate shows up.
3
Ignoring the concrete
A 2-post lift needs 4–6 inches of reinforced concrete to anchor into. If your slab is cracked, thin, or has no rebar, it's not going to hold safely. Get it checked first.
4
Wrong electrical setup
Most lifts run on 220V/30A — same kind of outlet your dryer uses. If your garage only has standard 110V, you'll need an electrician before the lift goes in. Scissor lifts are the exception — they run on regular household power.
5
No plan for delivery
These crates weigh over 1,000 lbs. The freight truck drops it at the curb. If you don't have liftgate delivery or a forklift lined up, you're going to be staring at a crate you can't move. Have a pallet jack ready — or some very motivated friends.
Still Not Sure?

We'll Help You Pick the Right Lift

Tell us your ceiling height, floor space, and what vehicles you're working on. We'll recommend the exact lift — no pressure, no upsell.

Get a Free Recommendation → Call (888) 885-7067